It did not take long on the mini bus on the Aran Islands before I had a rush of feelings, some not that positive and it set a bit of tone for the day and for some days to come. I was okay for the first 10 minutes or so whilst the driver cracked some jokes and gave a good run down on the island. We were left at the nearest spot for our 20 minutes walk up to the fort. Okay. But on the return and whilst awaiting driver, I filled in some time observing others around me. Like the 3 middle aged women who took 5 minutes to work out that to take the walk to the fort, one has to pass through the visitor centre and pay 2 euros for the privilege. Back and forth they went, arguing loudly about the price and the process. Like the young girls, in shorts and other not so good attire on a cool,windy day, huddling together in the doorway of the only entry to the fort. Eventually they reluctantly moved out of the doorway so that Yvonne can get a photo muttering something about “yes, we are from the US and we think we rule the world”. Then after a series of on the bus, off the bus activities I get the old anti tourist feeling and just want this mini tour to end.
Back in the “capital” of Innis Mor, the community feeling of the locals shines through as they watch the boat races and the music starts up on the quay where people are gathered. The older ones, mostly men, are talking “shop” and probably the weather and sport as they do all over the world. The younger ones are hunting in packs and eyeing others off as they go around. The next younger groups and families are intent on following the boat races and enjoying the events. All good stuff and community life seems strong amongst the 800 people who live on this remote place.
In Killarney several days later, it is wall to wall buses and glazed eye tourists wandering over twee streets. So I was pleased to get to Kenmare, a little out of the way but still on the Ring of Kerry, where we can re-establish out mode of self touring.
But back tracking now. For our last day at Castleconnell we took a fairly long drive over to the
southern end of the Burren and south of the Cliffs of Moher. We parked the car on the coast at Kilkee and walked along the cliffs from there. It was a terrific and simple thing to do and with a few minutes of walking the panorama opened up. It was quite a good day and the air was very clear. Magnificent 360 degrees views. This was what we had come to seek in Ireland.
We also enjoyed a few hours in and around Dingle town on our way to Kenmare. The vistas here were also very pleasant and the town was quite vibrant with plenty of visitors, Irish included as the holiday period is now upon us.
Several days later we did a similar thing in Kerry. This time we walked from Waterville to Scarriff Inn perched high up in the hills overlooking Ballinskelligs Bay and the Beara Peninsula. It was another perfect day and Yvonne did quite well again to handle the 15 kms walk up and over Farraniaragh mountain-twice. Second time around for Randall but many more stops to smell the roses and to take a few more photos of sheep - a bit of a thing with Yvonne.
The whole Kerry peninsula is almost picture perfect and from up in the hills this walk is just a series of sweeping views all around. We were pleased with our time here. Inspirational. We also had time to visit the family home of Daniel O'Connell “The Liberator”. This home is set in against the hills and quite protected. There are quite special gardens here than entice you to sit and just take in the environment. Mandatory spot for tea ans scones-again.
Saturday was the one day each year when a bicycle “fun”event takes place with over 3,000 participants riding the whole Ring of Kerry, over 200 kms. The riders must compete with normal traffic, including the many tour buses for space on the narrow roads. We will not be hanging around here for that.
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